How to make a door frame with your own hands: recommendations (video)

Removing the old door

Not all apartments begin renovations from scratch. Often they simply replace the old door with a new one. In this case, it is necessary to dismantle - remove the old door block, and prepare the opening for installation of a new one. Usually the procedure is carried out without preserving the old leaf and door frame, so it is carried out by roughly breaking them out. But neatness won’t hurt if the owner doesn’t want to re-finish the walls and corners of the doorway.

First, remove the door panel. The door can be removed from the card hinges by lifting it, but the universal hinges must be unscrewed from one side.

Removing the old door

Remove the cash, screwed with self-tapping screws (unscrew it with a screwdriver or screwdriver). If the cash is nailed down, pry it open with a wide chisel and remove the nails using pliers.

Determine where it will be attached to the opening. Usually attached to the hinge recess.

Cut off all the foam used to seal the door frame. Removed with a sharp knife.

Advice. When sealing the door frame with plaster, arm yourself with a chisel: lightly tap it with a hammer to remove all excess.

Remove the solid frame from the doorway. Place it on a horizontal plane and disassemble it. If preserving the canvas and box is not necessary, then you can remove them using a hammer, ax and crowbar. There is no special algorithm of actions here - break with all your might. This method will bring a lot of pleasure.

Selecting an interior door block

When choosing a door block it is worth considering:

1. Opening method.

   The most popular are swing doors. If there is a lack of space, sliding sliding doors are used. They are mounted in a special way and open along guide strips, sliding into a special recess in the wall. Folding (accordion-shaped) and stable (representing 2 halves of the canvas, swinging in both directions) are used much less frequently. They are matched to the appropriate design of the room.

2. Noise insulation.

   This quality is affected not only by the door leaf, but also by the frame of the interior door, as well as by the casings.

3. Weight of the canvas.

   This factor depends solely on the material from which the door is made. The heavier it is, the better quality the fittings should be.

4. Execution material.

   Doors are made from solid wood, MDF and chipboard. Products made from solid wood are considered to be of the highest quality; the downside is the weight of such a door.

Advice. When choosing an interior door unit, consult the seller about its fire safety class. So, the door will protect you not only from noise, but also from fire.

Selection of extras

The width of the box body varies among different manufacturers, starting from 75 mm. The parameters affect whether the box covers the entire wall of the opening or not.

Important! In cases where the thickness of the walls exceeds the width of the frame, installation of extensions is required.

Extension – planks made of multi-layer MDF panels. The color of such additional components matches the color of the door and trim. But if the design of the room requires it, you can buy parts of a different shade.

Additional details

Additional details cover the bevels on three edges: on top and on the sides. When selecting extensions, keep in mind that the top strip should be longer than the width of the door, and the vertical elements should touch it at right angles.

Different sizes of extensions allow you to choose suitable additional elements for any width. If you can’t find the parts you need, you can customize them.

Marking and measurements

Before assembling the door frame, it is necessary to take several accurate measurements and mark the materials. The door block is installed after the floors are ready and the walls are finished.

Dimensions are taken based on the height, width and thickness of the doorway. Indications should be indicated with an accuracy of 0.01 cm. If the measurement is inaccurate, a door installed with your own hands may not fit tightly or creak when opening/closing.

Of course, there are certain standards for door frames:

• kitchen – 60 x 200 cm;
• living rooms - 70-80 x 200 cm;
• bathroom – 60 x 190-195 cm.

But taking into account the old buildings, the violation of the geometry of the opening and the difference in the thickness of the walls, it is better to play it safe and measure everything again. This will guarantee the correct operation of the door unit as a whole.

Interior door measurements

To take measurements, you need to have the following tools on hand:

• yardstick;
• pencil or marker;
• paper;
• square;
• plumb line

Proceed to measurement:

1. Measure the height and width of the opening. To determine the correct horizontal line, the width is measured at the floor level.
2. Determine the dimensions of the door leaf. To do this, you need to subtract the width of the door frame beam from the width of the opening, multiplied by 2, and round the result to the nearest hundred. For example, if the measurement of the opening showed 90 cm, and the width of the frame beam is 25 mm, then the dimensions of the canvas are calculated using a simple formula (900 - 25 * 2 = 850). Based on this, the canvas should be 80 cm. The height is determined in a similar way.
3. Separately measure the openings in the bathroom and toilet. Here, due to the threshold, which prevents water from flowing out, the height is much less.
4. Calculate the depth of the door block. To do this, measure the thickness of the wall.

Important! It is not recommended to cut the door leaf; it must be selected based on the measurements taken. If you neglect this, you will encounter the formation of too large gaps or damage to the door.

Before installing the door frame, you also need to check the floor level. It is important that the floor is level. This measurement is made using a building level. The difference between the door frame pillars should not exceed 2 mm.

Do-it-yourself wooden doors: step-by-step instructions, diagrams

A door frame is basically a frame that contains bars and folds. The box is reinforced with special bolts or steel plates are used.

You can assemble the door frame yourself using wooden blocks and fasteners.

To prevent unevenness when setting the box, use a plumb line and level. In the case of stone walls, the frame is attached to wooden plugs using nails. If the walls include slabs, the structures will only be supported by brackets.

In order to understand how to make a door frame with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with some aspects of the work itself.

To begin with, measurements are taken. There are 2 ways to retrieve data:

• along the doorway;
• on the installed door.

For example, calculating data on an operating door. First, measure the sides and add 5 cm on all sides of the door. Next, measure the threshold and the upper part of the system, leaving room for allowance. Then they calculate the footage and begin sawing.

Next, lay the bars on the floor; they will be needed when installing the side box. They should lie level, with the grooves on top. Mark the upper and lower boundaries of the future door, while adding the thickness of the threshold. Certain notches are made from the bars that are applied to the threshold and crossbar so that the sawing line is visible.

Scheme for taking measurements of a doorway.

Then the prepared materials are sawed for collection. After cutting the workpieces, it is necessary to adjust them to the appropriate size. A slot for future loops is made in one of the blanks using a chisel and hammer. Before you start, you need to know the necessary side of opening the structure.

To continue self-assembly, you must use screws and nails to strengthen the future structure. Next, hinges are hung and the doorway is strengthened. Even out the gaps.

The necessary tools to help assemble the door are:

• construction knife;
• square;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• plane;
• hacksaw.

Use a set of screwdrivers of different configurations, use pliers, a crowbar, and small nail pullers.

To punch a hole in concrete, you need a hammer drill. A miter saw can prepare materials for the door. An electric router also does quite a lot. Using it, holes for the necessary locks and hinges are made in a short period of time. If you have a large set of cutters, even better. If you need to make a door frame with special quality, you will also need a woodworking machine.

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Door frame device.

The process itself looks something like this. First, a smooth board 5 cm thick (maybe several) is prepared, and 4 identical pieces are made from it. 2 of them are equal to the length, 2, respectively, to the width of the opening.

In this case, the segments have processing on only 3 sides - they must be made very smooth, the 4th is placed near the wall. Based on the width of the board, a cut is made into which the door will be inserted.

When all the necessary workpieces have been prepared, they begin to process the transverse sections. The longitudinal compartments of standard doors are 193 cm, the transverse ones are 90 cm. The cut at the end of the door frame should be 1.5 cm deep and 5 cm wide.

First, you need to attach all the straps located on the top and sides, and only then begin to install the box itself in the doorway. In this case, there must be a space of 2 cm between the door and the wall. This is subsequently used for thermal insulation.

One of the important elements in securing the door is the gash. There are 2 options for sawing boxes: 45° and 90°.

The diagram covered the door frame.

The box is cut at 45° as follows:

• boards are taken;
• the necessary marks are placed on the inside, the unnecessary is removed;
• The sawing angle inside should be 135°, and outside 45°; the length of the vertical boxes should be standard and identical.

The same is done with horizontal small bars. The only difference is that it needs to be sawed off from all sides. The most important thing is not to make mistakes in sizes.

To assemble the box at 90°, place the finished parts of the future door on a flat surface. The corners are carefully connected using self-tapping screws, screwing 2 self-tapping screws into all corners (at right angles).

To keep the door frame in the required position, several methods can be used:

1. Strengthening the door frame with small slats. The slats must be secured perpendicular to the posts with small nails (screws).
2. Adding wide and hard corners that are designed for fastening. Install all corners, carefully checking perpendicularity and verticality.

The frame is inserted into the door opening and positioned correctly in the center. At the end of all work, be sure to check for cracks, distortions and other irregularities. If necessary, use a seal.

In order for the box to be firmly fixed in those places where it comes into contact with the wall, a sealant is placed.

At the end of all additional operations, the perpendicularity of the elements on the side is checked.

Of course, if you use all the specialized tools and assistants who can supply the parts if necessary, making a door yourself will be quite simple. Therefore, choose the option that is suitable for you. Good luck!

Manufacturers are increasingly using composite materials, plastic, and steel to make doors. However, the tree has not lost its popularity. Durable and warm material is ideal for entrance doors to the house. The boards are used to independently assemble canvas for outbuildings and baths. Making a wooden door with your own hands is not difficult. You just need to have a good board and a set of tools.

When producing wooden doors, you need to know the advantages and disadvantages of the material. The final result depends on this. The main difference between wood is its hardness. Soft woods are easy to work with, but are less resistant to moisture. This material is suitable for interior doors. It is difficult to process hard wood with hand tools, but the material is more resistant to moisture. This wood is suitable for making entrance doors.

When talking about wood species, it is worth considering the resin content of the material. Larch takes first place in this regard. A product made from it will withstand dampness for a long time. Resin protects against rotting.

The following requirements apply to choosing a board:

• minimum number of knots;
• wood moisture content no more than 15%;
• perfect evenness.

For outbuildings, used material taken from the dismantling of old buildings is suitable. It is better to make beautiful doors to the house from a new board.

Hardwood

1. Birch is quite hard and difficult to process, but has an attractive texture.
2. Beech is characterized by increased strength, but deforms when humidity changes.
3. Alder is soft and rots quickly in high humidity.
4. Oak is hard, tends to split, but is resistant to dampness and beautiful.
5. Walnut has an interesting texture, is easy to process, and is not afraid of moisture and mechanical stress.
6. Maple is moderately hard, can be processed well, and has moderate resistance to moisture.

For the manufacture of wooden entrance doors, oak or beech is most often used.

Conifers

1. Of the coniferous species, pine is considered the most popular. Soft wood is easy to process, but does not withstand moisture well. The material is best used in the manufacture of wooden interior doors.
2. Larch is characterized by a beautiful texture and high resin content. Solid wood perfectly resists moisture, which makes it possible to use the board for assembling entrance doors.
3. Spruce is knotty, lighter and softer than pine, and slightly inferior in strength.

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Tools

In production, special machines are used to make wooden doors.

• Thicknesser is necessary for processing the board. The most productive are double-sided planing machines, which clean the workpiece in one pass.
• Without a milling machine, manufacturing wooden doors is impossible. It is used to make locking joints on boards, select chamfers, and process shaped workpieces.
• When gluing overlays to a wooden frame, a press is used.
• Use a circular saw to cut the board to the desired size.

To make wooden interior doors with your own hands at home, no one will buy expensive machines. An electric circular saw is suitable for unraveling the board.

You can select grooves and process the surface of the workpieces using a manual milling machine.

Additionally, you should have on hand:

• drill;
• screwdriver;
• wood hacksaw;
• grinder;
• chisels, mallet, corner, level, tape measure.

To paint the door leaf, it is advisable to use a compressor with an air gun.

To make a wooden door with your own hands you will need the following materials:

• dry tongue and groove board;

During the purchase, the thickness of the boards is selected taking into account the installation location of the door leaf. For an interior door, 25 mm thick wood is sufficient. For the front door, use a 50 mm thick board. After purchasing, it is advisable to dry the wooden blanks by laying them on a flat surface using pads.

Additionally, a mortise lock, hinges, handles, and a viewing peephole are purchased for the wooden entrance door. For an interior door, it is enough to take hinges and a handle with a latch.

When assembling a simple wooden door with your own hands, a drawing or complex diagram is not needed. It is enough to measure the height and width of the door leaf. The dimensions of the sash are calculated so that it fits into the grooves of the door frame, leaving a gap of about 5 mm around the perimeter. When making a wooden door, the main elements are prepared: a tongue-and-groove board with a tongue-and-groove lock for the door leaf and a crossbar made from edged blanks.

The step-by-step instructions for assembling a wooden door with your own hands consist of the following steps:

• the boards are sawn to the height of the future canvas and laid out on a flat surface, observing one direction of the pattern of annual rings;
• the tenons with grooves are lubricated with wood glue, all the boards are connected, tightly squeezing the canvas with a clamp;
• After the glue has dried on the outermost plank, the tenon is cut off from the end of the product, and the entire surface of the shield is milled and polished.

• To prevent the sash from falling apart, the structure is secured with cross members. The edged board is shaped into a trapezoid, grooves are made on the canvas to a depth of 1/3 of the thickness of the wooden piece and they are lubricated with wood glue. The crossbars are inserted into the recesses by tapping with a mallet. For reliability, you can fix it with self-tapping screws.
• To make the sash last longer, it is treated with antiseptic impregnations. If it is necessary to install a double-glazed window on a wooden door, a window is cut out in the panel using a jigsaw. A board is nailed to the center of the end of the entire perimeter of the opening - a stop for two glasses. After installing the double-glazed window, the edges are framed with glazing beads or decorative strips.

Door frame assembly diagram

The door block is sold assembled or in parts. In the first case, the canvas is matched to the block, and all parameters are adjusted by the manufacturer. If the purchased door does not fit into the opening, then it is expanded. In the second case, you can purchase parts of the door frame and the leaf separately and fit the block to the door opening.

To assemble the door frame you will need:

• hammer;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• drill;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• hacksaw with blade for wood and metal;
• pencil or marker.

Door Installation Tools

So, let's start assembling the door frame.

1. On a flat horizontal surface (the floor or a large table) we spread a material that will serve as protection against scratches during assembly.
2. We lay out 2 vertical bars of the disassembled box. They have a vestibule - special grooves that secure the canvas.
3. We put the door leaf into the narthex, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm.
4. We align the frame posts and apply the top block.
5. Mark the length of the top of the box and cut off the excess. It’s worth cutting strictly according to size, but if you miss a little, it doesn’t matter, the small imperfections will be hidden by the platband.
6. Screw the top rail to the posts using self-tapping screws or carefully nail it in place.
7. Measure the doorway again and cut off the excess.
8. Doors to bathrooms are equipped with a threshold. Measure another short beam for the threshold in the same way as the top crossbar.
9. The door frame is ready for installation.

Required Tools

You will need tools such as a spatula, hammer, chisel, drill, saw, level, tape measure. A spatula is necessary for applying and leveling plaster when finishing a doorway. A hammer will be needed to adjust the elements of the side of the frame and fix the trim. A chisel is used to remove material when cutting into door hinges. A drill is needed to drill holes: in the wall for subsequent installation of opening details and in the canvas for fittings. A saw will be needed to cut parts of the box, platbands, and extensions. In the case of metal elements, it is replaced with an angle grinder. The correct position of elements horizontally or vertically is determined using a level. A tape measure is used as the main measuring device. In the process you will also need a plane, a square, a screwdriver, a pencil, and a construction knife.

• wire cutters;
• construction mixer;
• plaster trowel;
• jigsaw

Installation of accessories

After you have assembled the door frame, you need to install hinges on it. It will look more aesthetically pleasing if the hinges are screwed at the same height on each door.

Without removing the door block from the horizontal surface, after assembling it, place the fittings in the intended place and draw a dotted line with a sharp pencil. Remove the door panel and use a chisel to select a piece of wood with a depth corresponding to the thickness of the canopy card. Attach the fittings and pierce the twisting points with an awl. Screw the canopies with self-tapping screws. Part of it with a flag on which the loop will be hung is attached to the counter, and the loop is on the door leaf.

You can screw the fittings onto the door frame after it is installed, but you will have to do this while holding the door leaf suspended. You definitely won’t be able to do this operation alone.

Door installation

Box installation procedure

This is necessary if the box was made independently or purchased together with the sash in disassembled form (this only applies to wood products).
Before starting work, it is advisable to check the presence of all elements, the degree of their fit, as well as the composition of the installation kit prepared for installing the door. All this is easy to lay out in the hallway or on the landing. The components of the box, even if it is factory-made, will still have to be adjusted to the location. You need to make sure that the cuts are exactly 45º. If necessary, the required cut can be made using a miter box.

Since the joints of the box bars are made with self-tapping screws, holes are drilled for them. This will prevent the appearance of cracks in the wood, as well as the deviation of the fastener leg from the desired direction during the screwing process.

• After it is ready, it is necessary to mark the places where the canopies are attached. If it is a wooden jamb, then you will need a chisel to remove the material.
• The hinges are immediately screwed to the frame.
• Depending on the system for fixing the block on the wall, fastening strips with drilled holes are screwed to the frame (in accordance with the drawn up drawing). They allow you to fix the door structure on the base without damaging its front part.

• The first “approach” is a test one. Monitoring the position of the frame will allow you to determine where there are large gaps between it and the base, and, therefore, decide how to eliminate the defect. Wedges, bars, planks cannot always correct the situation; in some cases it is advisable to carry out concreting.
• Re-installation of the box. Basically, almost all wooden jambs do not have a threshold, and therefore, in order to achieve the correct geometry, a spacer is placed at the lower level, exactly the size of the upper plank of the frame.

Checking the opening parameters. And only after making sure that it has the correct shape can you begin attaching the box.

Fixing the block

Recommended system - at least 6 places; 2 points at the top and sides. And the more massive the frame and sash, the more of them there should be, for reliability.

Installation of spacer wedges. They are placed evenly around the perimeter of the structure, providing additional stability in the opening. The nuance is that it is necessary to constantly monitor the unchanged shape of the box, otherwise, after installing the canvas, difficulties will arise with its opening/closing.

• Drilling. Through the holes in the planks, channels are drilled into the base for the anchors.
• After fixing the door frame to the wall, you can further strengthen the structure. If the door is metal, then pins are driven in in advance, to which the frame is “attached” from the inside by welding. Then this place is masked with plaster and platbands.

All that remains is to hang the sash and check its position relative to the frame. If necessary, make simple adjustments. In terms of finishing - installation of platbands or another method of decorating the opening.

The polyurethane foam used to process the cracks should not be considered as an element of the box fastening system. It serves only to improve the sound and heat insulation characteristics of the opening, nothing more. If there is a significant load on the door, the foam will not hold it from longitudinal displacement.

When installing doors, several techniques are practiced. In order not to make a mistake in choosing the optimal one, you should follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Only competent installation of the structure is the guarantee that there will be no problems with it for a long time.

The upper parts of the racks must be cut using a hacksaw (it is better to take a saw with small teeth) and a miter box. This operation is easier to do if you have a miter saw. Measure the required length along the inside of the post (it consists of the bottom gap, the height of the door leaf and the top gap).

The bottom gap is usually taken to be about 1 cm, the top - no more than 0.4 cm. Prepare the second rack in the same way.

Now you start processing the lintel. Measure the desired length along the inside.

The required length will include the width of the door leaf, a small (about 0.4 cm) gap on the side where you will put the lock on the door, and another gap on the hinge side. You get the length (internal) of the lintel. Note - absolutely accurate.

Installation of interior door posts

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Now you can saw off the ends of the lintel with your own hands (again, with a miter saw or miter box). This procedure is done at an angle of 45°. Next we work on the door hinges.

Their installation should be done as carefully as possible

Now you can work on the box and trim.

You have completed a difficult task on your own. Now you can work on the box and trim.

Installing an interior door frame into an opening

After all the preparatory steps for installing the door frame in the opening have been completed, you can begin installation. In order to prevent the U-shaped structure from “driving”, it is necessary to install auxiliary strips (spacers) on it; two are enough – at the bottom and in the middle of the rack.

In order to check the correctness of the frame geometry, you must use a plumb line or level. It is easy to construct a plumb line using twine and a bolt, tying it to the head.

Having placed the structure in the indicated place, check the verticality of the racks again. Don’t be too lazy to do this; if it’s uneven, the door won’t close. This procedure is carried out on both sides of each rack.

The box is installed using anchor bolts. They will fix the door block and prevent its deformation. To do this, you need to drill 3 through holes in the racks directly into the opening, and then tighten the bolts.

The gaps between the door frame and the opening are eliminated using polyurethane foam. In order not to stain the front side of the structure, it is necessary to cover it with masking tape. Fill the voids with foam carefully, taking into account the fact that when it hardens, it increases the volume by 30-40%. To prevent the box from moving, it is necessary to install wooden spacers. After the foam dries, they are removed.

Completeness and purpose of expanders

The set of parts consists of two posts and a crossbar, which together create a U-shaped device. It is usually sold together with the door, but you will also find items sold separately if you wish. If the structure is equipped with extensions, quarters or grooves are selected in its box at the manufacturing stage, intended for their direct installation.

Important! For the most part, the size of the grooves is designed to accommodate planks with a thickness of about 10 mm.

The structure of the elements is simple, therefore, if you have basic skills in working with tools, you can build them yourself.

Additional parts are also used as independent elements, without installing a box. Sometimes design tasks involve connecting several rooms into a single one (kitchen and living room, corridor). The partition between these rooms is not completely removed, but a spacious opening is installed in it. Extensions are used to decorate them, since the use of such elements looks more aesthetically pleasing than finishing with plasterboard.

Final stage

The final stage includes the installation of platbands on the door frame. They give the door block an aesthetic appearance and hide minor installation flaws.

Completing the installation of the interior door

First of all, the length of the casing is determined. To do this, you can use the size table, or determine it yourself by measuring the length and width of the structure at the extreme point of the box. To join the platbands, it is necessary to make a side cut at an angle of 45°. You can use a miter box (a special device that allows you to cut wood products according to specified angle parameters) or a jigsaw, having previously measured the required angle with a protractor.

Next, each of the side trims is nailed to the box with two nails (bottom and middle). The upper horizontal casing is measured and sawed at an angle of 45°. After this, all 3 planks are finally nailed.

Advice. To ensure that the nails do not peek out from the platband, they must be recessed. Using a drill with a diameter corresponding to the size of the nail head, cut a recess of 1-1.5 mm.

Installing an expander with a groove

Door extensions with grooves are the easiest installation option.
If the frame is equipped with special grooves, the operation algorithm is as follows:

• The door frame is installed and fixed. If desired, you can hang the canvas; this does not affect the installation of the extensions;
• Expanders are adjusted to the required sizes;
• Preliminary measurements will be required before proceeding with installation. Measure the distance from the outer edge of the wall to the frame in at least three places. If the distance does not converge, then the additional elements will have to be trimmed in the workshop. An edge tape is glued to the section of the expander to which the platbands are directly attached;
• The extensions are wedged into the grooves - first vertical, then lateral.

Important! The expanders are placed strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the plane of the frame.

• After installation, control the horizontality and verticality of the extensions;
• In several places, masking tape is glued to the extensions to secure them in the desired position;
• The gaps between the wall and the extension are foamed;
• Excess foam is cut off after drying;
• Platbands are attached.

To perform installation, first cut the parts to size

Some tips for installing a door frame

1. When cutting the door frame beams, use a hacksaw or jigsaw. Their small teeth will prevent you from chipping.
2. When installing a solid wood panel, use 3 canopies. This way, a heavy door will last longer and the hinges will not sag. The third hinge is cut into the middle of the door frame or moved upward.
3. Doors for the kitchen and living rooms should be 1-2 cm from the floor level. This is done to ensure ventilation. Also, small ventilation grilles are cut into the kitchen door so that if gas leaks, it does not concentrate in one room.
4. If the room has thick walls, and this was not taken into account when choosing a door, then it turns out that the width of the frame is less than the width of the opening. To correct such a defect, a supplement is used. Bars or boards that will completely cover the bare wall.
5. When finally installing the door frame, so that the foam adheres better, it is necessary to wet the surface with a spray.

Now you are definitely ready to install the door frame for the interior door. The proposed video describes in more detail some of the stages of this difficult process.

Useful tips and mistakes to avoid

Due attention should be paid to fastening the door frame on the side where the door is hung. You should not increase the number of screws or dowels more than two, because the entire load will be transferred through the hinges. No matter how many screws are attached between them, they will not change anything. There will only be extra holes in the box, sometimes very noticeable. Fastening hardware can be hidden. It is only necessary that they are securely installed. Even the most minor fluctuations must be corrected immediately.

The fact is that foam holds lateral load well, but is practically useless when compressed. It is not a problem if some of the fasteners are longer than necessary and come out slightly on the wrong side. This will not affect the strength of the fastening. If no cracks have formed on the frame, then everything is in order, all that remains is to slightly disguise the defect if it catches your eye. However, it may not be visible at all.

If the box is made of natural wood, then the screws are used with large pitches, and if they are made of microwood fiber, with small pitches.