What oils are used to treat bath shelves?

05.12.2019

Wooden surfaces in baths and saunas need additional protection from moisture and hot steam. Impregnation with oil will prevent wood destruction.

Baths and saunas are most often built from natural wood. This material has the ability to retain heat well, so it is ideal for steam rooms. However, under the influence of high temperatures and humidity, wood begins to deteriorate and very quickly loses its attractive appearance. To avoid this, it is necessary to use special wood-protective coatings.

Insulation for a bathhouse door with your own hands - thermal curtain

A thermal curtain will help to effectively ensure thermal insulation of the dressing room.

Make a sealing frame on the inside of the door block. Cut the insulation into strips (2 strips measuring 10 cm * 100 cm and 2 strips 10 cm * 200 cm are enough). Nail them along the perimeter of the door frame 2 cm from the edge, placing them towards the door.

With a standard door size, nail wooden blocks on top of the insulation: two measuring 2x2x184 cm, and two measuring 2x2x80 cm. Wrap them with strips of insulation, cutting off its excess and press it on three sides with cash.

From thick fabric, tarpaulin or leatherette, make a continuous screen measuring 120 * 200 cm. On one side, sew it along the entire height so that a block measuring 2x2x200 cm fits inside this flap.

The other side must be attached to the wall, 10 centimeters from the cash. Cover the edge with a decorative strip. Sew metal rings at the top of the fabric.

Now the final stage of making a thermal curtain for a bathhouse door with your own hands - screw a self-tapping screw above the rail, leaving a 2 cm end outside, to which you should attach a strong wire.

We stretch it through the rings of the screen and secure it with another screw above the door block parallel to the cashing. To the left of the door, attach two springs or rubber bands from a bicycle inner tube, providing them with hooks. Sew rings onto the screen at the level of these springs. The work is done.

When not in use, the screen is located to the right, behind the door. When you enter the bathhouse, move it to the left, securing it to the hooks; the fabric will fit tightly to the sealing frame, blocking the access of cold air.

Warming the bath from the cold

Insulation from the inside is a mandatory aspect when building a bathhouse. This step will help reduce heating costs, maintain the desired temperature and speed up the heating of the room.

Thermal insulation materials are usually divided into two types:

• organic origin;
• inorganic origin.

Not only the thermal insulation and moisture-resistant characteristics of the insulating material, but also its environmental friendliness are considered a very important factor. In order to prevent heat from escaping outside, the base is often sheathed with foam boards, secured with glue. To insulate the walls of the bathhouse, lathing made of bars is used. If necessary, insulation is sometimes placed not in one layer, but in several at once. Sheathing with clapboard is the last stage, in which a small gap is left to prevent the material from rotting.

Ceiling insulation should not be ignored, otherwise 15% of all heat will be lost. The ceiling in the bathhouse is insulated using foam boards, which significantly reduces heat loss. After the seams are sealed with special foam and vapor barrier materials are used, you can begin covering with boards.

Rules for applying oil impregnations

1. Before applying impregnation, the surface is thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt and, if necessary, the old coating is removed.
2. Then the wood is sanded, dried and the dust and shavings formed as a result of sanding are removed.
3. The impregnation is mixed well and applied to the surface with a short-bristled brush.
4. Within 7-10 minutes after treatment, remove excess with a soft, lint-free cloth.
5. The surfaces are allowed to dry and then polished.
6. If necessary, repeat the treatment.

The drying time for each layer ranges from 4 to 24 hours. The exact time required for a particular product to dry is indicated in the instructions. In addition, the drying time is affected by the humidity and temperature of the room, as well as the absorbency of the wood species. In any case, it takes at least a day for the surface to dry completely.

Remember! Wood is only reliably protected from moisture when it no longer absorbs moisture.

Several ways to insulate a bath door

Staple fiberglass can be used as insulation for a door block in a bathhouse; expanded polystyrene, incl. extruded; foamed polyethylene foam or basalt insulation. Each of these materials has its own characteristics in terms of flammability, vapor permeability, and environmental friendliness. But, in principle, any of them can be used.

Depending on the initial design of the door block, the insulation method is chosen:

• Manufacturing an additional wooden frame from timber and then installing it on an existing structure using insulation and decorative coating.
• Laying insulation into the inner chamber of the door.
• Installation of thermal insulation on top of the canvas using nails or screws, followed by covering the material with decorative finishing.
• Thermal curtain.

Let us consider in more detail the above mentioned insulation methods.

For wooden floors, walls and ceilings

Today there are many impregnations and bleaches for wood in the bathhouse.

The most popular of them is the product of the Slovenian company Belinka; it perfectly protects wooden elements from moisture, fungi and parasites.

It is unacceptable to use this type of product for residential buildings.

Many people believe that simple whitening can be used to bleach the wooden surface of shelves or other elements, but this is completely false and also dangerous.

Attention! Contact of bleach with human skin in a hot steam room can result in second-degree burns, and its vapors themselves are very dangerous for the human body.

Bleaches and classic impregnations have a number of advantages:

1. Easy to apply;
2. Comprehensive protection;
3. Low cost;
4. A small amount of time required to dry the applied product;
5. Preservation of the appearance of the wooden element.

The door to the bathhouse is swelling

With high humidity, high temperature and poor ventilation, the door may swell. This is not a good sign, but it is not necessary to replace the door with a new one:

• Provide good ventilation in the room and allow the wood to dry thoroughly;
• After complete drying, when the door returns to its previous size, apply a special water-repellent solution to it. It will prevent moisture from seeping into the wood in the future.

Tip: When treating the door with a water-repellent solution, do not forget about the door jamb. It must also be isolated from excess liquid.

The solution for treating doors can be polyfluid. It is very easy to apply and penetrates well into the very depths of the fibers, creating a protective layer. Read the instructions on how to choose a sauna stove

Impregnations and bleaches for shelves

Bleaches and impregnations are quite popular on the Russian market, but they are used much less frequently, despite the fact that they are not inferior to varnish. Among all the impregnations, we can highlight brands such as Belinka-sauna from a Slovenian manufacturer, Prime Thermo, etc.

Special impregnation for a shelf in a bathhouse or sauna has the following advantages:

1. It is colorless and does not change the shade of wood;
2. The impregnation is easy to apply;
3. The composition is quickly absorbed and hardens;
4. Provides good protection at a low price.

It is not recommended to replace special solutions with improvised means. For example, some people use a bleach solution instead of bleach, but this is a big mistake. Chlorine, when heated, releases many chemicals into the air, which negatively affects human health and well-being. Another unpleasant consequence of this treatment is a second-degree burn.

Correct application of impregnation:

1. Clean, sand and rinse the surface;
2. Before saturating the wood in the bath, wait until the surface dries and apply the first layer;
3. After the impregnation has dried, apply a second layer;
4. In total you need to apply 2-3 layers.

It takes approximately 40-50 minutes to dry each layer, and you can see an example of proper wood processing in the photo.

Separately, it is worth highlighting wax for the sauna. It can be applied with a cloth or a disc machine. It allows you to create heat-resistant protection against moisture and mold. Wax has two significant advantages: it only takes 24 hours to dry completely, and the protective layer it forms is highly breathable, allowing the wood to “breathe.”

Next, it’s worth talking about how to treat the shelves in the bathhouse if it has already begun to collapse. If the shelves or other wooden surface of the bathhouse begins to rot, then you can prevent complete destruction by using the Nortex product. The composition is applied with a sponge to damaged areas.

Any safe bleach intended for wood, for example, “Doctor for Wood” from the Belinka company, will help get rid of darkening. The solution is also applied with a sponge only to damaged areas. Whitening will take about 2 hours, but one time may not be enough.

Option with additional wooden frame

Materials you need to prepare:

• wooden beams 20 x 20 mm;
• insulation;
• aluminum and construction nails with heads or self-tapping screws;
• sheet of fiberboard or wooden plywood.

For ease of operation, the bath door must be removed and laid on a flat, solid base.

Wooden blocks must be nailed along the entire perimeter of the canvas, so that their edges protrude beyond the boundaries of the existing canvas by 10-15 mm. Using aluminum nails, it is necessary to nail the insulation onto the frame, folded in half so that it protrudes beyond the edges of the frame by 10-15 mm.

The mechanism of action of this design is that the door itself becomes warmer, and when closed, additional sealing is provided due to the insulation bent outward, nailed with an overlap.

Laying insulation into the inner chamber

If the bathhouse has a three-dimensional door, then it must have insulation in its cavity. If cold drafts appear in the bathhouse, the insulation must be replaced. In all likelihood, it has fallen into disrepair. To do this, the door removed from its hinges must be disassembled and the old insulation removed from its cavity. Having laid the new material, the canvas must be re-assembled and installed in place. All wooden parts must fit very tightly to each other, and there must be an air gap in the cavity of the canvas.

What should a door to a bathhouse be like?

It is most rational to use a low and narrow entrance for a bathhouse; air exchange through such a structure will be difficult and therefore the heat in the bathhouse will be better preserved. The door must open outward; this must be provided for safety reasons. After all, pushing it out, if necessary, is more realistic than opening it by pulling it towards you.

Since a resin door can release resin during operation, a more suitable material for making a door block for a bathhouse would be hardwood.

To avoid swelling of the door and subsequent damage, it must be thoroughly moisture-proofed. All parts of the door block must be carefully adjusted to each other. A whole door leaf is always more airtight than a prefabricated one.

Specifications

Usually the entrance door to the bathhouse is slightly smaller than the one installed for the steam room.
Usually the entrance door to the bathhouse is slightly smaller than the one installed for the steam room. Its standard sizes are:

• Canvas = 80 cm;
• Doorway height = 150 cm.

It is important to take into account the fact that the door will necessarily open outward, and not inward. Read the guide to choosing an electric sauna stove on this page

When choosing a wooden door for a bathhouse, you should definitely consider the following factors:

It is important to use only high quality wood; The door should only be located in the southern part of the room (to avoid slanting rain); It is worth paying attention to veneered doors, as they have a fairly high thermal conductivity and making them yourself is much easier.

Choosing a door size

The door will be exposed to extremes of heat and humidity. It is very important that steam not only does not escape when the door is closed, but also that it escapes to a minimum when people enter and exit. Therefore, the door to the steam room is traditionally made low. Its height depends on the height of the finished ceiling of the steam room itself, and it, in turn, depends on the height and number of “floors” - shelves

But the ceiling in the bathhouse is never very high - usually it is at the level of 220–230 centimeters

Its height depends on the height of the finished ceiling of the steam room itself, and it, in turn, depends on the height and number of “floors” - shelves. But the ceiling in the bathhouse is never very high - usually it is at the level of 220–230 centimeters.

We calculate: 230–60 = 170 centimeters, subtract the “margin” of 10 centimeters, result: the optimal door height is 160 centimeters.

We insulate the door in the dressing room

In cold weather, going to the bathhouse is a special pleasure; after warming up in the steam room, the body is in a comfortable, healthy state for a long time, so you want to stay in the bathhouse longer. In order not to overheat, you need to periodically enter the dressing room, and then continue the thermal procedures.

It’s good when the dressing room is built taking into account the lowest temperatures and is comfortable in it, because if the cold comes from the floor, then you won’t sit in such a dressing room for a long time, you can easily catch a cold and the impression of such a trip to the bathhouse will remain negative. Most often, the cause of discomfort in the form of a cold draft is the loss of sealing of the entrance door to the bathhouse.

Hanging blankets on the door or installing a second block do not solve this problem, but, perhaps, aggravate it by the fact that frost forms on the inside of the door and in some places the canvas freezes to the jamb. Then it becomes impossible to open the bathhouse without an ax; mechanical impact can lead not only to the formation of even larger cracks, but even to breakage of the block.

What's in it, what are they made from?

Unfortunately, most manufacturers do not want to reveal their secrets, sharing information with the consumer about the composition of their products. This is probably done because the ingredients are simple and affordable , and not everyone will want to pay for fancy packaging if it significantly increases the price.

(For example: do you know that caustic soda, which is part of almost all strong anti-fat products, can be bought much cheaper in its pure form? And this is the main active ingredient, other surfactants and fragrances are just there for company.)

From what we have been able to find out about, say, shelf oils, the expression “natural ingredients” hides polymerizing oils (most often linseed and hemp) and waxes. In addition to them, paraffin is also mentioned. In this regard, the question arises: what prevents you from making such impregnation yourself?

Can I do it myself?

Of course you can. And many do just that. Here is one of the possible recipes suitable for the steam room:

The proportion between linseed oil and wax is 92:8, 93:7, 94:6, 95:5. That is, we take 92-95 parts of oil and 7-5 parts of beeswax.

The oil must be prepared first. To do this, it is boiled for 20 minutes. During this period of time, excess water evaporates from it and the characteristic odor disappears.

After boiling is completed, wax is added, which should be crushed in advance. As the mixture cools, it should be stirred to prevent the wax from curdling.

It is better to store the finished mixture in a glass container. Shelf life - no more than a year .

Well, for those who prefer not to bother with preparing oil wax, we will name the most well-known companies that make good impregnations of this type.

Which manufacturers and brands are good?

We will consider as good those from whom they take more often, whose names are well known to everyone.

First of all, as usual, I would like to name the Finns and the Germans.

TIKKURILA and TEKNOS are well-established Finnish companies. The first offers impregnations Supi Saunasuoja and Supi Laudesuoja . The second one has Satu Saunasuoja .

The German company ESKARO offers Saunaoil.

Slovenian BELINKA offers “ Sauna Oil – PARAFFIN ”. By the way, drying occurs within a day.

Among the Russian manufacturers we will name PINOTEX, SENEZH, NEOMID.

Double-chamber entrance door to the bathhouse

The presence of a vestibule prevents cold air from penetrating into the dressing room, but a very humid environment is created between the doors, which damages the structures, so the entrance door to the dressing room should be insulated as much as possible. The most optimal option for arranging the entrance is to install a two-chamber door.

The design should include 2 hollow chambers isolated from each other; inside each chamber there should be a certain volume that must be filled with insulation.

The manufacturing process consists of:

preparation of materials: wooden blocks 20 x 20 mm, 3 fiberboard panels, two of which will act as the outer and inner surfaces, and the third will act as a partition between the chambers and insulation. It is not necessary to use purchased insulation; outerwear that has gone out of use (natural fur coats, batting from coats, padding polyester, etc.) will do just fine.

manufacturing two identical frames from bars according to the size of the door leaf; making the door and installing it in place.

The sequence of work is as follows: first, a sheet of fiberboard is laid on a hard surface, face down, and a prepared frame of bars is nailed to it around the perimeter. Fill the resulting trough with insulation and cover it with a middle shield (it can be made from two components with careful adjustment of the parts).

Next, a second frame is attached to the resulting structure; it is also advisable to fill the second trough with light insulation and cover it with a third shield with the front surface facing outward.

Nails with heads or self-tapping screws must be chosen of such length that they go halfway into the cavity of the part to be joined. The end surfaces must be cleaned with medium-coarse sandpaper. It is advisable to prime the entire door and cover it with varnish or paint.

We solve the problem comprehensively

Proper layout of the premises is also important.

Many people, having spent good money on complete insulation of their bathhouse, suddenly discover that for some reason the desired insulation does not occur. Yes, it’s warmer, but where is the promised bliss, and why are there drafts across the floor?

The answer usually lies on the surface and whistles with pleasure - the door, the ordinary door to the bathhouse becomes the cause of this final inconvenience.

The solution to this problem can be very simple, or it can be a little more complicated, namely:

• Insulation of the door leaf itself;
• Insulation and sealing of joints where the door meets the jamb;
• Installation of thermal curtain;
• Installation of a second door.

Today we will go through all the points and be sure to solve two basic questions: how to insulate the door to the bathhouse and how to insulate the door to the bathhouse.

Let's get busy with the canvas

Photo of foamed polyethylene foil.

Any carpenter will tell you that it is not advisable to make the door structure heavier; moreover, this is fraught with distortions, and considering where the door is located (meaning in a bathhouse), then making it heavier is a completely unnecessary undertaking.

Therefore, in this section we solve the problems:

• Which insulation to choose so that it does not absorb moisture, can withstand low temperatures and is not very heavy;
• How to layer this insulation onto the door leaf.

We will not transmit the entire flow of information that the Internet is replete with about insulating fabric; we present a very simple method and its rationale:

As door leaf insulation, we offer you polyethylene foam with a foil layer. The material itself is quite resistant to cold weather, has the invaluable advantage of being wind and moisture impermeable, in addition, the foil layer will return heat flows back to the bathhouse. And the weight of the material will be slightly more than the total mass of the paint and varnish impregnation layers. The hinges will not experience a large load and the canvas will not move.

Regular door covering with this material.

From canvas to jamb

After insulating the door leaf, let's work on the jamb

The simplest thing is to trim the inner perimeter of the jamb with the door tightly closed (and note, already insulated)

In the old days, the most popular insulation for the front door was felt, but now you can use any other method. Basic requirements for the material: it must be soft enough, and at the same time fit tightly to the door leaf, thus preventing the access of air, and also not lose its qualities when in contact with water, not cake or tear.

The technology has not changed:

• The insulation is cut into thin narrow strips at least 5 cm wide;
• A 20x20 mm strip is marked and sawed off in such a way as to completely and tightly cover the internal perimeter of the jamb (taking into account the thickness of the insulation itself);
• The insulation is folded in half and installed with a fold to the door leaf as close to it as possible, pressed and fixed with a strip to the jamb;
• Thus, the entire perimeter of the doorway is covered.

Full guarantee

If you already want to get a full guarantee of protection from the cold, then you can finish insulating the door to the bathhouse by using a curtain made of dense material. You don't need instructions to cut and make the curtain. We chose the material, cut it, cut it, stitched the edges, thought out the fastening system and hung it. In this case, the fastening system can be under the rings on the pipe, simply overlapping the valve and stitching the valve under the pipe, or you can even make a cloth for clothespins (clothespin fastenings). There is also a simple way to attach between two planks. Therefore, we do not limit you in fastening and choice of material.

A few words about the second door

That's the point.

The second door is a method that has been tested and proven to be positive. Place your bet. To implement this, it is necessary to either install a jamb in which it will be technically possible to install two doors, while the adjustment of the two panels must be carried out before installation in the opening, which sometimes requires financial costs, time, and the warm season.

You can install an additional jamb and canvas to the existing ones, but you need to think about fixing the new structure to the existing one. A positive quality of the second door is the layer of air, which plays a buffer role and prevents the cold from quietly passing into the dressing room.

Design

We haven’t touched on this topic before, but why not really think with you about what color to paint the bathhouse and what design options there are in general?

What color to paint

We have paints and varnishes at our disposal. The bathhouse itself is either made of wood, or lined with wood, or brick, or plastered. Perhaps it is finished with stone, for example, on the foundation.

In general, it would be desirable to maintain at least some kind of stylistic unity - at least within the bathhouse itself, and at maximum - in all buildings. That is, if you decorated the house traditionally and in natural wood colors, then painting the outside of the bathhouse pink will look... foreign. But if all the buildings on the site are bright in color, then the bathhouse should be made no less bright.

Now about the styles. We have already said once in other articles that the bathhouse has three conventional styles : tradition, high-tech and “modern” (the latter means the use of modern materials without particularly advanced design ideas).

If you choose “tradition,” then you either have timber, a log house, or lining - paint in shades from yellow through orange and reddish shades to dark brown, better with varnish than paint, so that the texture of the wood is visible.

It’s hard to believe in real “ high-tech And if it is implemented, it will be according to a design project, where all the colors will be painted.

There is only one option left - the same “ conditionally modern ” style, which does not have its own face. Try to “revive” it by using brighter colors. And regarding the combination of colors, we advise you to search the Internet for pictures with the phrase “color schemes” - usually this is a photograph from which several colors have been extracted (stripes under it), forming a harmonious combination. It's easier than learning color theory.

Example of color gamut extraction

Indications for insulation

Door insulation serves several purposes:

• First of all, this is to prevent heat loss. The bathhouse is especially susceptible to heat loss. It is always very hot in the steam room, and in winter, with a sufficiently large temperature difference, heat loss increases significantly.
• Protecting the door from drying out and rotting. A simple wooden door will begin to increase and decrease in size under varying humidity conditions. This will affect the door frame. As a result, situations often occur when the door simply stops closing or opening, and mold forms on the surface of the door leaf
• A big problem with wooden doors is drafts. Especially above the floor of a steam room without door insulation, a cold breeze will always be felt. This is unlikely to result in illness, but it will certainly ruin your vacation in the steam room.

It is necessary to insulate the doors in the bathhouse when there is heat loss.
Therefore, it is definitely necessary to insulate the door to the bathhouse. To simplify the process, the door to the steam room and the dressing room are insulated according to the same scheme.

What happens if you don't insulate your doors?

I will share the experience of friends who let everything take its course in their bathhouse. They did everything beautifully, without thinking about frost or cold weather.

Any tree swells from contact with water, these are the laws of physics. During the cold winter season, frost forms on the doors. The doors do not close and are covered in ice. The long-awaited warmth arrives, the ice melts, the doors absorb moisture and swell so much that they can no longer be closed.

Spoiled wood begins to rot, and mold and rot form. In the bathhouse there is not the aroma of a broom and the heat of the bath, but the persistent aroma of old age and disrepair.

Don’t be lazy, take the time to insulate your entrance doors, because they are the main protection not only from prying eyes, but also a barrier to the winter cold!

Well, who doesn’t like to take a steam bath? Bath procedures are unlikely to ever lose their relevance, especially in cloudy and cold Russia. What could be nicer than taking a dose of warmth in winter? In order for a visit to the bathhouse to be absolutely comfortable, it must be built taking into account all the requirements. Insulating the door in a bathhouse is an important stage of construction; it determines how well heat will be retained inside the room. Today we will talk about how to insulate the doors to the bathhouse. Here you will find step-by-step instructions and useful tips.

Products for treating steam room elements

All products used to process wood inside a bathhouse are divided into two groups: impregnating and coating agents. They are also often divided into colored and colorless, for example, wax, varnish and some impregnations.

Less common are bleaching agents, which are used in cases where the shelves have already darkened. Next, we’ll talk in detail about specific types of processing agents.

Insulation materials and their properties

There are special requirements for materials for insulating bathhouse doors:

• First of all, the thermal insulation material must be resistant to high temperatures. There is always hot air in the steam room, which enters the dressing room. There are a number of insulation materials that in normal situations behave more than adequately, but at elevated temperatures they begin to release harmful substances into the room. These include most mineral wool slabs.
• The requirement for moisture resistance of the material is also important. No matter how you protect the insulation, water will still find a way to get into the thickness of the material and destroy it. Therefore, you cannot use materials like foam rubber for insulation. But the moisture resistance parameter is fully met by polystyrene foam.
• The last factor is vapor permeability. Any tree must breathe and a wooden door to a bathhouse is no exception. Complete moisture insulation will cause the wood to begin to rot and the door will quickly become unusable. Among other tasks, insulating the door should maximize the service life of the structure.

Among the suitable materials are the following options:

• Felt. An ideal material because it meets all the above requirements. At the same time, the insulation is environmentally friendly. But there is a huge disadvantage: natural felt is not cheap, and the market is filled with its synthetic substitutes. It is strictly prohibited to use material even with a minimal admixture of synthetics; such an analogue can catch fire from one spark.
• Mineral wool basalt slabs. This option meets all the stated requirements, while being inexpensive and easy to install. But in such situations there is always a “but”. Recent research by scientists has shown that when heated, insulation releases harmful substances. These studies have not yet been confirmed by a large series of experience; accumulation of information is required, so you should not discount mineral wool slabs. Whether to use this material or not is the decision of the bathhouse owner alone.
• Izolon foil. Today it is the most popular material in Russia for insulating bathhouse doors. This is an affordable insulation material, easy to install and easy to use. This material has no negative aspects in a particular situation. Izolon cannot be used for external insulation, but we are talking about internal structures, so this drawback is not critical.

Felt is one of the materials for insulating doors in a bathhouse.

Glass wool based materials should not be used. This is a rule that cannot be broken. Insulation based on glass wool is a rather capricious material; it is better not to use it in recreational facilities such as bathhouses. It is very difficult to get rid of glass dust, which is a natural product of the installation process. After installing the insulation, glass dust will continue to cause inconvenience for a long time, remaining on the wooden floor of the steam room. The main criterion for choosing from the presented insulation materials should be the price. Insulation should be as cheap and accessible as possible. If you are hesitating between felt and isolon, it is better to choose a material that is cheaper in the construction region.

How to treat the inside of a bathhouse: review

As a rule, the process of impregnation of parts and finishing elements begins from the moment of construction of the bathhouse. You cannot build a steam room, line it with clapboard, and then start applying a protective coating. Typically, this type of impregnation only helps to give a decorative appearance to the walls, ceiling and floor; after a couple of months, fungus may appear and the wood fibers may swell.

How to cover the walls of a bathhouse inside

A significant disadvantage of high-quality materials for impregnating wood inside a steam room and bathhouse in general is their high cost. Therefore, you have to combine and select different compositions for different sections of the walls and floors of baths and steam rooms.

First of all, the walls, frame parts and load-bearing elements, the clapboard cladding of the steam room, and floorboards must be treated with an antiseptic even before all this is laid, nailed, and screwed into the bathhouse.

Important! It is known from practice that there are no places or parts in the bathhouse in which fungus cannot appear or an area of ​​wood rotting cannot form.

The second pass is used to process the lining for the steam room, especially for lining the ceiling. Parts of the walls and floorboards adjacent to the installation site of the future stove and chimney must be impregnated with fire retardant compounds; only after this the material can be laid in the bathhouse.

The wooden structure of a bathhouse is often left to shrink over the winter. Therefore, after completion of the shrinkage processes, immediately before finishing the room, the lining, walls and floor will need to be treated again with any water-based antiseptic.

Walls and ceilings are usually treated with water-soluble acrylic impregnations with a spray bottle; at least a couple of layers of antiseptic must be applied to ensure high-quality impregnation of all surface areas.

This is what concerns the treatment of the walls of the rest room, dressing room, corridor and entrance to the steam room. For ceilings, floor frames and steam rooms, lining and lining of the washing compartment, this will not be enough.

How to treat the floor in a bathhouse

To impregnate the floorboards in the hallway and rest room, you can use the same materials as for the lining on the walls. The floor is considered a highly loaded element of the interior, so it is best to use polyurethane varnishes and coatings. The floors cannot be impregnated with oil or drying oil, or any similar material, otherwise it will be incredibly difficult to wash and clean the bathhouse, especially the steam room.

The best impregnation option for a steam room

There are specialized Tikkuril bath compositions designed specifically for floor coverings and wooden floors. Use Tikkurila Supi Saunasuoja, this is an acrylic impregnation with water and dirt repellent properties. The material is quite expensive, a package weighing 3 kg costs $30, enough for 10-12 m2, but the high quality of the impregnation justifies the cost.

How to treat logs from rotting in a bathhouse

All parts and load-bearing elements that will be hidden under clapboard sheathing or floorboards must be processed in advance, even before they are used as joists.

There are several impregnation options:

• Treatment with a hot mixture of drying oil and hemp oil;
• Double treatment with acrylic, then polyurethane varnish;
• Impregnation with spindle mineral oil.

No options using waste automobile oils, any auto-catches, nigrols, or creazotes are suitable for protecting the elements of joists and beams. Firstly, it is very difficult to impregnate materials with a viscous consistency so as to completely cover the surface of the wood; for this, the wood needs to be soaked for at least a week. Secondly, mineral oil does not form a continuous impenetrable film. Thirdly, almost all industrial compounds destroy the structure of wood.

Perhaps the logs will not rot, but due to high acidity they will turn into dust.

Oil for bath shelves

There is a certain standard used when processing wooden surfaces with which steam room visitors have to come into contact. Wall lining and shelves must be treated with materials and impregnations that do not form a hard varnish film after drying.

As an example of such a material, you can use Tikkuril’s special bath impregnation called Suopi laudesuoja. Essentially, it is Vaseline-paraffin liquid oil with dissolved natural wax. Apply it to a heated and well-dried surface of the lining or boards used for shelves.

Wax-like coating on steam room floors and shelves

The mixture can be adjusted using special toners, so, as a rule, there are no problems with matching the color of the finishing inside the steam room to the overall color scheme of the bathhouse premises. The same impregnation option is ideal for treating doors, window frames, thresholds and ceiling trim in a steam room.

Methods and technology for insulating a door block in a bathhouse

There are only 3 methods and technologies for insulating a door. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, so it makes sense to talk about each option in more detail.

Additional wooden frame

An additional wooden frame is a design that is aimed at combating the main source of heat loss - heating of incoming air and drafts. The point of modernization is to reduce the distance between the door frame and frame as much as possible.

To do this, perform the following steps:

1. The platbands are removed, and felt is laid between the platbands and the wall. Instead of removing the box, you can install an additional one. To do this, you just need to lay felt over the entire area of ​​the door frame, and then cover it with a second layer of platband. The felt is nailed down with a construction stapler.
2. The pie made from platbands must be covered with facing material: slats, clapboard or fiberboard
3. The door is adjusted to the new dimensions of the casing
4. The space between the door and the platband is laid with strips of felt or rubber sealant. The main task is to get rid of drafts

Thermal curtain

A thermal curtain is more of a temporary solution than a real solution to the problem of drafts and heat loss. The curtain is used in regions with particularly low temperatures in winter or as a temporary shelter in newly built baths. In essence, it is just a curtain made of heat-insulating fabric: leatherette or felt.

To arrange a curtain, you need the material itself, a block or baguette on which the material is hung.

There are two arrangement options:

1. In the first case, simply nail the fabric to the block with a lath, or use the bar itself to press the fabric against the wall. Thin nails are used to press the strip. The advantage of this method is more efficient heat retention. The curtain will close on its own after entering the steam room. The disadvantage is obvious: entering the room will be extremely inconvenient.
2. The second option is to hang the canvas on rings, which in turn are placed on a baguette. It's more convenient, but not as productive.

If we are talking about a temporary curtain, then it is better to use the first option, since temporary inconvenience can be tolerated for the sake of thermal efficiency.

But talking about constant discomfort when going to the steam room is stupid, so the second option is often used as a permanent solution.

Double chamber door

A two-chamber door or double door is the most popular and technologically advanced way to insulate a bathhouse door. The point is to replace the door leaf with a cake in which the insulation sheets will be sandwiched with fiberboard slabs.

To make a two-chamber door you will need:

• Fibreboard boards
• Bars for creating a frame. The width of the bar must correspond to the width of the insulation sheet. The same value is the future thickness of the door
• Insulation
• Nails or self-tapping screws for securing fiberboard sheets.
• Door fittings: hinges and handle.

Double chamber door to the bathhouse

First, a frame is created. As a rule, these are just bars around the perimeter of the door with one lintel in the middle. A sheet of fiberboard is attached to the frame on one side. The space between the bars is filled with insulation, and then the pie on the other side is covered with the same fiberboard. Additional insulation of the door around the perimeter will allow you to forget about the cold and drafts in the steam room forever.

To summarize, we can say that insulating the door to a steam room or dressing room is a fairly simple task

It is important to choose the right material and carefully carry out insulation. But implementing even the most complex decisions does not present any particular problems

Features of oil treatment

1. If pure oil (usually linseed) is used, it is heated to 50-60 degrees before processing.
2. The composition is applied either with a brush with natural bristles or with a cotton cloth.
3. Apply the oil in a thin, even layer.
4. The product is applied 5-6 times with layered sanding.
5. After covering the next layer, wait for it to dry, then sand and apply the next one.
6. It takes at least 2-3 weeks for a surface coated with linseed oil to completely dry.

If a mixture of oil and wax is used to process the bath, then the ingredients are taken in a 2:1 ratio to make it. To prepare the product, add heated wax to hot oil and then mix well.

The mixture is applied with a foam sponge strictly along the fibers. When the first layer has dried, remove the residue with a waffle cloth and treat the surface again.

Adviсe

Experts have prepared several useful recommendations.

To ensure maximum comfort in your bath room, you should pay attention to some recommendations from experienced professionals. For example, it is better to install a sauna on the south side, since in winter, when you sometimes want to take a steam bath, it will be easier to get to the entrance due to the fastest snow melting on the side closer to the south

In addition, it will be preferable if the windows face west, since in the evening the room will be illuminated by rays for much longer. Also, for constant air circulation and excellent heat maintenance, it is recommended to build a bathhouse from wooden logs.